24 Hours in Eswatini
If you’d have asked me whether I would ever visit the Kingdom of Eswatini, I would have most likely said “probably not.” This was one of those opportunities that rarely happen. Because of a visit to South Africa, I started wondering what else could I do and see while there without flying and within a very short timeframe: 24 hours.
Visiting a new country is always a great opportunity to broaden horizons, and get a grasp of a new culture, its traditions and landscapes. So, with a bit of research and some help from a friend, I realized that Eswatini was a good idea, as it clicked all the boxes: no flying needed, just a 5-hour car ride, not expensive – return trip was about USD 70 – and doable in 24 hours.
The destination was set: Mbabane, the capital of Eswatini. Interestingly, Eswatini is the last absolute monarchy in Africa, has one of the most ancient wall paintings, and is also one of the smallest countries on the continent. For my night in Mbabane, I chose a place immersed in nature: the Ematjeni Retreat and Guesthouse just 15 minutes outside the city.
My ride to Eswatini started on a Friday morning in Johannesburg, South Africa. A forty-minute cab ride to O.R. Tambo International Airport in Johannesburg, where the minivan to Eswatini was due to depart. At 8.30 AM, the minivan with Eswatini number plate arrived. We left on time at 9 AM, with another six passengers heading back to their respective homes.
The ride out of Johannesburg is smooth and easy, with impeccable infrastructure and a four-lane highway taking us through the outskirts and open fields. Joburg from a car is very similar to any European city, i.e., lots of businesses, industries while one of the major differences remains the presence of low-income areas built by the highway.
After some 15 minutes, fog and low clouds appeared as we left the Gauteng province and entered the Mpumalanga province, “the place where the sun rises.” Mpumalanga is indeed stretching all the way to the Mozambique-South Africa border, and as we drove through it, the presence of the mining industry became visible: long freight trains, mining sites, and heavy trucks. At some point, we stopped to let a mine blow up somewhere nearby. This is also where the van left the highway to turn right, into the more rural parts of Mpumalanga.
The road was still very decent, allowing for a smooth 80-100 km/h drive. Slowly, I felt like entering another dimension of South Africa. We left the cities of eMahlaleni, eMakhazeni behind and passed by towns by the names of Carolina, Hendrina, even Amsterdam. Carolina caught my attention: a village, with the main street and plenty of red-brick houses. Outside, locals chilling under plastic shacks, cutting hair, doing their grocery shopping in the open, or waiting for clients to enter their business.
Leaving Carolina meant that the border with Eswatini was getting closer and with it, some beautiful hills and vast pine trees forests. A wonderful landscape appeared as the van approached the border, with hills, small villages and lush nature that made me think of central Europe. My excitement grew as we saw the border. All the passengers suddenly started talking to each other, sharing stories, their plans for the weekend, and the reasons for travelling. Everyone felt relieved to have finally made it to Eswatini.
The crossing was one of the most pleasant experiences I have ever had on the African continent. Barely any queue, friendly officers, and a straightforward process. From there, the ride into Mbabane took barely twenty minutes on a smooth two-lane highway gently descending downhill. Mbabane, the capital of Eswatini, is a small, cute city, and gives you the impression of a tranquil holiday big village rather than of a capital. My ride continued up the hills where I finally reached my destination for the night.
Perfectly nested in the hills surrounding Mbabane, with a beautiful view over the surrounding valleys, as well as of the famous Sibebe rock - one of the biggest rocks on our planet - Ematjeni Retreat and Guesthouse was all I wanted and needed. Peaceful, tranquil, immersed in nature: the perfect place to recharge. I was longing discovering the surroundings and with Michael, one of the staff members at Ematjeni, I took off for a 1-hour hike around the guesthouse, climbing steep fields where rocks and pristine water courses meet in a beautiful mountainous landscape.
As the evening started to fall, I went back for a dip in the swimming pool overlooking the valley before darkness took over at around 5.45 PM. Enough time to rest and I went upstairs for a memorable dinner. While the guesthouse was full, I was the only one eating dinner there that evening. The table, perfectly set by the window, was illuminated by a gentle candlelight. I enjoyed that dinner surrounded by peace, regenerated by delicious local food, and a glass of excellent red wine. Ematjeni also offered plenty of great photographic books to browse through before heading to bed.
In the morning, it was already time to pack and leave. At sunrise, Ematjeni was wrapped in a thick fog cover. I made myself some coffee, and enjoyed a hot cup on the balcony, breathing the fresh air of the misty early hours before my ride downtown to catch the van back to South Africa. The van this time was full and departed sharp at 7.30 AM, leaving Mbabane in a mix of clouds and orange-yellow colours emerging at times through the fog. Within twenty minutes, the van stopped at the border for yet another smooth crossing from Eswatini into South Africa.
The rest of the journey went through the same itinerary of the day before, passing through the rural and industrial hearts of South Africa’s Mpumalanga province, before reaching Johannesburg by lunchtime. A truly inspirational journey, and something that would deserve more time. Eswatini is a very valid, intriguing destination for every curious traveller, even if for 24 hours only.
