Arabian Days: Discovering Jordan
The Middle East. The cradle of humanity. Source of inspiration for travellers who love the unique and exotic landscapes, historical sites, vibrant cities, the genuinely friendly people, and delicious food. A place where you can still feel like you are travelling back to a past that is long gone, full of adventures and simplicity. A place where you can still sleep under the stars like the Bedouins have done for generations and stick your toes in sand dunes at sunset. Yet a place of innovation, technology, and luxury. Halfway between Europe and Asia, the Middle East is full of amazing places to discover. From the Mediterranean coast to the deserts of the Arabian Peninsula. A place of harmony and contrasts at the same time: the historical sites and timeless atmosphere of Jordan, with its holy sites, calm and relaxed atmosphere, and melting pot of people who came over centuries ago from every corner of the Middle East. Opposite to that are the futuristic cities of Doha and Dubai with their extravagant buildings, lush life, and business attitude of their people.
We first stop in Dubai for a 9-hours layover, just the time needed to visit some of the main attractions, such as the Dubai Marina, a 3-kilometers artificial canal surrounded by shiny, expensive skyscrapers, the Burj Khalifa, the tallest building on the planet, and the Atlantis, one of the world’s most luxurious hotels. After feeling the vibe of the city, we take off again and after 3 hours we arrive in the capital city of Jordan, Amman. The sun shines bright and high and a gentle, sweet wind blows in the hot Saturday afternoon. We arrive in Amman during the golden hour, just before sunset. The city, beautiful at first sight with its white houses and vast neighbourhoods spread over seven jabals, or hills, feels like home. There is something very familiar and similar to any other Mediterranean city. The neighbourhood where we stay, Abdil, is full of beautiful and peaceful narrow streets with gracious pine and fig trees, small and old villas, and gracious 3-floors apartment buildings renowned to have been home to the aristocratic families of Amman in the past.
The city of Madaba is the next stop and takes 30 minutes by car from Amman. Madaba is home to ancient mosaics and sites directly related to the history of the holy land. From the top of St. John’s church, Madaba presents itself in a collage of minarets, small family houses, streets, and alleys. While continuing south in the direction of Petra, we deviate from the desert highway and stop by an ancient fortification in the desert, the Shobak Castle, for a visit and a sweet mint tea. By the time we arrive to Petra it’s already evening: the temperature slowly cools down, and we enjoy the evening breeze while smoking a shisha before going to bed.
The next day at 6:30 AM, we are ready to enter Petra. There are already dozens of visitors making their way to the Treasury, one of the most iconic sites. Some street dogs accompany us for a few hundred meters while the locals working at Petra bring their camels for another long day of work with the tourists. We continue to avoid the crowd and soon reach the colonnate, an avenue with the rest of old columns from centuries ago. After another hour and a half of walking and climbing, we reach the Monastery, another breathtaking site of Petra, where we stop for a cardamom coffee under the shade a bougainvillea tree.
The day goes by very quickly and we are again on the road in direction south and the natural reserve of Wadi Rum. This desert is like nothing else that we had seen before. A place that could easily be located on another, much drier planet. Maybe that’s exactly why the directors of The Martian picked this place? After leaving the village of Wadi Rum in the back of a pick-up, one could enjoy the endless view of this mountainous desert, sleep under the stars in one of the popular transparent bubble rooms, or simply enjoy a noise-free night immersed in the middle of nowhere, with only jets flying high above your head reminding you of civilization.
After the desert, it is time for yet another unique experience: the Dead Sea. The lowest point on Earth, i.e., negative 400 meters below sea level, the Dead Sea is not only unique for its morphology, or because it is the saltiest water body on our planet, but also because of its geographical position. Half of the Dead Sea lies in Jordan and the other half is part of the Palestinian Territories.
The Dead Sea is an unforgettable experience. Swimming and floating in its turquoise waters, experiencing a massage with the Dead Sea mud, renowned for its rich mineral content and healing properties is just unique. The Dead Sea is also a place of relaxation where one could just enjoy being there, admiring the breathtaking scenery, eating Jordanian food and watch the sunset go down onto the holy land.
It was already time to return to Amman, a mere 1-hour drive from the Dead Sea to explore the capital city a bit more. Well organized, clean yet not touristic besides the classic spots like the Citadel, or the Amphitheatre. Spending time in Amman will give you a glimpse of the real Jordanian life. Take a stroll downtown and visit the main market or simply walk in your neighbourhood or discover a local restaurant or a juice bar for a day to remember.
Leaving Jordan was bittersweet. A country that truly exceeded any expectations, full of life and amazing adventures, food, and kind people. While taking off during the night, seeing the city lights far away, one could only hope to return to Jordan soon and experience once again the unique beauty and hospitality of this region.
