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24 Hours in Eswatini
If you’d have asked me whether I would ever visit the Kingdom of Eswatini, I would have most likely said “probably not.” This was one of those opportunities that rarely happen. Because of a visit to South Africa, I started wondering what else could I do and see while there without flying and within a very short timeframe: 24 hours.
Visiting a new country is always a great opportunity to broaden horizons, and get a grasp of a new culture, its traditions and landscapes. So, with a bit of research and some help from a friend, I realized that Eswatini was a good idea, as it clicked all the boxes: no flying needed, just a 5-hour car ride, not expensive – return trip was about USD 70 – and doable in 24 hours.
The destination was set: Mbabane, the capital of Eswatini. Interestingly, Eswatini is the last absolute monarchy in Africa, has one of the most ancient wall paintings, and is also one of the smallest countries on the continent. For my night in Mbabane, I chose a place immersed in nature: the Ematjeni Retreat and Guesthouse just 15 minutes outside the city.
My ride to Eswatini started on a Friday morning in Johannesburg, South Africa. A forty-minute cab ride to O.R. Tambo International Airport in Johannesburg, where the minivan to Eswatini was due to depart. At 8.30 AM, the minivan with Eswatini number plate arrived. We left on time at 9 AM, with another six passengers heading back to their respective homes.
The ride out of Johannesburg is smooth and easy, with impeccable infrastructure and a four-lane highway taking us through the outskirts and open fields. Joburg from a car is very similar to any European city, i.e., lots of businesses, industries while one of the major differences remains the presence of low-income areas built by the highway.
After some 15 minutes, fog and low clouds appeared as we left the Gauteng province and entered the Mpumalanga province, “the place where the sun rises.” Mpumalanga is indeed stretching all the way to the Mozambique-South Africa border, and as we drove through it, the presence of the mining industry became visible: long freight trains, mining sites, and heavy trucks. At some point, we stopped to let a mine blow up somewhere nearby. This is also where the van left the highway to turn right, into the more rural parts of Mpumalanga.
The road was still very decent, allowing for a smooth 80-100 km/h drive. Slowly, I felt like entering another dimension of South Africa. We left the cities of eMahlaleni, eMakhazeni behind and passed by towns by the names of Carolina, Hendrina, even Amsterdam. Carolina caught my attention: a village, with the main street and plenty of red-brick houses. Outside, locals chilling under plastic shacks, cutting hair, doing their grocery shopping in the open, or waiting for clients to enter their business.
Leaving Carolina meant that the border with Eswatini was getting closer and with it, some beautiful hills and vast pine trees forests. A wonderful landscape appeared as the van approached the border, with hills, small villages and lush nature that made me think of central Europe. My excitement grew as we saw the border. All the passengers suddenly started talking to each other, sharing stories, their plans for the weekend, and the reasons for travelling. Everyone felt relieved to have finally made it to Eswatini.
The crossing was one of the most pleasant experiences I have ever had on the African continent. Barely any queue, friendly officers, and a straightforward process. From there, the ride into Mbabane took barely twenty minutes on a smooth two-lane highway gently descending downhill. Mbabane, the capital of Eswatini, is a small, cute city, and gives you the impression of a tranquil holiday big village rather than of a capital. My ride continued up the hills where I finally reached my destination for the night.
Perfectly nested in the hills surrounding Mbabane, with a beautiful view over the surrounding valleys, as well as of the famous Sibebe rock - one of the biggest rocks on our planet - Ematjeni Retreat and Guesthouse was all I wanted and needed. Peaceful, tranquil, immersed in nature: the perfect place to recharge. I was longing discovering the surroundings and with Michael, one of the staff members at Ematjeni, I took off for a 1-hour hike around the guesthouse, climbing steep fields where rocks and pristine water courses meet in a beautiful mountainous landscape.
As the evening started to fall, I went back for a dip in the swimming pool overlooking the valley before darkness took over at around 5.45 PM. Enough time to rest and I went upstairs for a memorable dinner. While the guesthouse was full, I was the only one eating dinner there that evening. The table, perfectly set by the window, was illuminated by a gentle candlelight. I enjoyed that dinner surrounded by peace, regenerated by delicious local food, and a glass of excellent red wine. Ematjeni also offered plenty of great photographic books to browse through before heading to bed.
In the morning, it was already time to pack and leave. At sunrise, Ematjeni was wrapped in a thick fog cover. I made myself some coffee, and enjoyed a hot cup on the balcony, breathing the fresh air of the misty early hours before my ride downtown to catch the van back to South Africa. The van this time was full and departed sharp at 7.30 AM, leaving Mbabane in a mix of clouds and orange-yellow colours emerging at times through the fog. Within twenty minutes, the van stopped at the border for yet another smooth crossing from Eswatini into South Africa.
The rest of the journey went through the same itinerary of the day before, passing through the rural and industrial hearts of South Africa’s Mpumalanga province, before reaching Johannesburg by lunchtime. A truly inspirational journey, and something that would deserve more time. Eswatini is a very valid, intriguing destination for every curious traveller, even if for 24 hours only.
Arabian Days: Discovering Jordan
The Middle East. The cradle of humanity. Source of inspiration for travellers who love the unique and exotic landscapes, historical sites, vibrant cities, the genuinely friendly people, and delicious food. A place where you can still feel like you are travelling back to a past that is long gone, full of adventures and simplicity. A place where you can still sleep under the stars like the Bedouins have done for generations and stick your toes in sand dunes at sunset. Yet a place of innovation, technology, and luxury. Halfway between Europe and Asia, the Middle East is full of amazing places to discover. From the Mediterranean coast to the deserts of the Arabian Peninsula. A place of harmony and contrasts at the same time: the historical sites and timeless atmosphere of Jordan, with its holy sites, calm and relaxed atmosphere, and melting pot of people who came over centuries ago from every corner of the Middle East. Opposite to that are the futuristic cities of Doha and Dubai with their extravagant buildings, lush life, and business attitude of their people.
We first stop in Dubai for a 9-hours layover, just the time needed to visit some of the main attractions, such as the Dubai Marina, a 3-kilometers artificial canal surrounded by shiny, expensive skyscrapers, the Burj Khalifa, the tallest building on the planet, and the Atlantis, one of the world’s most luxurious hotels. After feeling the vibe of the city, we take off again and after 3 hours we arrive in the capital city of Jordan, Amman. The sun shines bright and high and a gentle, sweet wind blows in the hot Saturday afternoon. We arrive in Amman during the golden hour, just before sunset. The city, beautiful at first sight with its white houses and vast neighbourhoods spread over seven jabals, or hills, feels like home. There is something very familiar and similar to any other Mediterranean city. The neighbourhood where we stay, Abdil, is full of beautiful and peaceful narrow streets with gracious pine and fig trees, small and old villas, and gracious 3-floors apartment buildings renowned to have been home to the aristocratic families of Amman in the past.
The city of Madaba is the next stop and takes 30 minutes by car from Amman. Madaba is home to ancient mosaics and sites directly related to the history of the holy land. From the top of St. John’s church, Madaba presents itself in a collage of minarets, small family houses, streets, and alleys. While continuing south in the direction of Petra, we deviate from the desert highway and stop by an ancient fortification in the desert, the Shobak Castle, for a visit and a sweet mint tea. By the time we arrive to Petra it’s already evening: the temperature slowly cools down, and we enjoy the evening breeze while smoking a shisha before going to bed.
The next day at 6:30 AM, we are ready to enter Petra. There are already dozens of visitors making their way to the Treasury, one of the most iconic sites. Some street dogs accompany us for a few hundred meters while the locals working at Petra bring their camels for another long day of work with the tourists. We continue to avoid the crowd and soon reach the colonnate, an avenue with the rest of old columns from centuries ago. After another hour and a half of walking and climbing, we reach the Monastery, another breathtaking site of Petra, where we stop for a cardamom coffee under the shade a bougainvillea tree.
The day goes by very quickly and we are again on the road in direction south and the natural reserve of Wadi Rum. This desert is like nothing else that we had seen before. A place that could easily be located on another, much drier planet. Maybe that’s exactly why the directors of The Martian picked this place? After leaving the village of Wadi Rum in the back of a pick-up, one could enjoy the endless view of this mountainous desert, sleep under the stars in one of the popular transparent bubble rooms, or simply enjoy a noise-free night immersed in the middle of nowhere, with only jets flying high above your head reminding you of civilization.
After the desert, it is time for yet another unique experience: the Dead Sea. The lowest point on Earth, i.e., negative 400 meters below sea level, the Dead Sea is not only unique for its morphology, or because it is the saltiest water body on our planet, but also because of its geographical position. Half of the Dead Sea lies in Jordan and the other half is part of the Palestinian Territories.
The Dead Sea is an unforgettable experience. Swimming and floating in its turquoise waters, experiencing a massage with the Dead Sea mud, renowned for its rich mineral content and healing properties is just unique. The Dead Sea is also a place of relaxation where one could just enjoy being there, admiring the breathtaking scenery, eating Jordanian food and watch the sunset go down onto the holy land.
It was already time to return to Amman, a mere 1-hour drive from the Dead Sea to explore the capital city a bit more. Well organized, clean yet not touristic besides the classic spots like the Citadel, or the Amphitheatre. Spending time in Amman will give you a glimpse of the real Jordanian life. Take a stroll downtown and visit the main market or simply walk in your neighbourhood or discover a local restaurant or a juice bar for a day to remember.
Leaving Jordan was bittersweet. A country that truly exceeded any expectations, full of life and amazing adventures, food, and kind people. While taking off during the night, seeing the city lights far away, one could only hope to return to Jordan soon and experience once again the unique beauty and hospitality of this region.
No Picnic on Mt. Kenya
In 1943, Felice Benuzzi, an Italian prisoner of World War II, escaped from a British detention camp in Nanyuki, a small town at the foot of Mt. Kenya. He and two fellow prisoners not only wanted to break free from prison. They also wanted to climb the mighty Mt. Kenya. So, they did. Five days of wandering through its valleys and peaks, with snow, ice, and scorching sun, without much equipment and only some canned food. Benuzzi, later journalist and diplomat, recalled his adventure in the book “No picnic on Mt. Kenya,” a must-read for anyone who aims to climb the mountain and familiarize with the many challenges one could face on the way up to the peak.
Climbing Mt. Kenya is indeed no picnic. It is a challenging climb through different routes, scenic landscapes with marvellous fauna and flora, and extreme or unpredictable weather conditions. Steven Kimani, the founder of Bedera Places, a local travel agency specialized in climbing the mountain, is one of the most expert guides. He accompanies travellers on in this adventure many times during the year.
“I forgot how many times I did it, but every time is different,” highlights Kimani stating that climbing the mountain remains a big challenge. “It is difficult because you need to be physically fit, you must do things right to avoid altitude sickness, and most importantly, you need to be mentally prepared that things can go wrong, or differently from what you expect.”
Even during the dry season, the climb towards Lenana Peak, the third-highest peak of Mt. Kenya at 4985 meters above sea level, might reveal challenging. Unexpected heavy rains, snow blizzards, and strong winds pose significant challenges to the climbers. Conditions that require careful attention, patience, and a strong mindset. At the end of each day, the climbers are often exhausted and need some time to rest and recover.
Steven is not the only one to help climbers achieve their goals. With him, a team of porters brings the necessary equipment to cater for food, as well as the tents and the bags of the climbers. These men and women are true heroes and a crucial need for a successful climb. Steven Githenya is one of them, and for him, there is no day off. Whenever someone calls, he gathers the necessary and leaves for another climb which takes on average three to five days. “We may rest one day,” says Githenya, “but we stand ready to leave the day after if there is an opportunity.”
David Kibui agrees. He is also a porter and together with Steven, is responsible for cooking delicious meals at high altitudes with very little equipment. David, a calm and reserved man, is not only a chef. He is also responsible for setting up the tent for the climbers before they arrive at the destination. “This is our job,” adds Kibui with a warm smile. “We are happy to accompany travellers in this unique adventure.”
When the journey comes to an end, there is a mix of sadness and joy. The porters go back home and get ready to start a new adventure with a new group. The climber might feel a bit lost. After days immersed in nature, the noise of cars, motorbikes and the sight of a town is both reassuring and frightening. This epic climb is no picnic but will forever remain in the heart of the climber who overcame the challenges of the second highest mountain of Africa. Who knows how Felice Benuzzi felt when he got back to civilization.
The article was written as an assignment for a Diploma in Freelance and Feature Writing by the London School of Journalism and after climbing Mt. Kenya through the Naro Moru-Chogoria Route in December 2021.
PhotoStory: Kenya Today
Living the Southern Africa Dream: A Long Weekend in Victoria Falls
The Outlook autoreply is on, bags are packed, and Christmas around the corner: the perfect start to the holidays to Victoria Falls. These majestic falls were first spotted in 1855 by the British explorer David Livingstone who stumbled upon them during one of his expeditions across Southern Africa. Reaching Victoria Falls from Kenya is relatively easy with a direct 3-hour Kenya Airways flight that takes you right to the border between Zambia and Zimbabwe, only a few kilometres from the falls. While descending, a vast, beautiful green and endless savannah opens up beneath you and just before landing, the smoke of the falls appears high in the air in the far distance.
Victoria Falls town in Zimbabwe sleeps as we pass through. It is just a short car ride before we enter Zambia through a historical iron bridge where trucks, a train and cars regularly cross overlooking a canyon that has been shaped by water. Quick formalities at customs and we are in Zambia, a vast and diverse country stretching for hundreds of kilometres all the way up north towards Malawi and Tanzania. There is plenty of options to make your stay at Victoria Falls memorable. One of these is the Royal Livingstone Hotel, a wonderful luxurious accommodation with lush gardens, zebras, amazing staff, food, and facilities and built on the banks of the Zambezi River; the perfect spot to enjoy a breathtaking sunset.
There is plenty to do around Victoria Falls. A walk to see the falls either from the Zambian or Zimbabwean side is a must to feel the power of the water and admire this natural wonder up close. In the afternoon, a cruise on the Zambezi is a relaxing and pleasant way to enjoy the natural beauty and wildlife of the river and watch the sunset while sipping on local beer or a glass of wine on the deck with other fellow travellers. For the adrenaline seeking visitors, there are plenty of options to satisfy the adventurous mind. Kayaking at the foot of the falls and bungee-jumping from over hundred meters are just two examples and there are plenty of reliable tour operators to help organize them.
The beauty of Victoria Falls also lies in its geographical position. Cutting two countries, Zambia and Zimbabwe, the falls are also just an hour drive away from Botswana. Chobe National Park is located close to the Botswanan town of Kasane famous for being one of the best safari spots in the region. Hills, bushes, and lush forests are the main features of this wonderful park that runs along the Zambezi River. Besides the usual land safaris, Chobe is also renowned for its boat safaris. While cruising on the calm waters of the river, it is very likely to spot large group of elephants and hippos.
One of the main attractions that remains is the Devil’s Pool. A natural pool right on the edge of the 111-meter waterfall where travellers flock to take pictures while swimming and sitting right by the end of the falls. After a good dose of adrenaline, it is time for a last activity this time from another perspective. A 15-minute helicopter ride overlooking the falls is a breathtaking experience to fly around the falls and see them in their entire beauty from both Zimbabwean and Zambian side. Similarly, a micro-flight is a super light, small flying kart that allow you to have an even more spectacular view, as the machine has no cabin or glass.
The sun is still high and hot as we leave Zambia to cross yet again into Zimbabwe. Many tourists are doing the same, while some of the locals are returning to Zimbabwe after a day spent in Zambia working and selling fresh fruits and vegetables. At the airport, the day is almost over, and the terminal feels very quiet compared to the roaring falls. Once in the air, the sunset arrives quickly leaving nothing but darkness out of the window. Memories of Victoria Falls will stay forever together with a unique feeling of having visited one of the most beautiful natural wonders of the world, something every avid traveller should have on their bucket list.
This article has been modified and published by Nomad Africa on 9 July 2024 as “What to Do for a Long Weekend in Victoria Falls.”
PhotoStory: The Shape of Water