No Picnic on Mt. Kenya
In 1943, Felice Benuzzi, an Italian prisoner of World War II, escaped from a British detention camp in Nanyuki, a small town at the foot of Mt. Kenya. He and two fellow prisoners not only wanted to break free from prison. They also wanted to climb the mighty Mt. Kenya. So, they did. Five days of wandering through its valleys and peaks, with snow, ice, and scorching sun, without much equipment and only some canned food. Benuzzi, later journalist and diplomat, recalled his adventure in the book “No picnic on Mt. Kenya,” a must-read for anyone who aims to climb the mountain and familiarize with the many challenges one could face on the way up to the peak.
Climbing Mt. Kenya is indeed no picnic. It is a challenging climb through different routes, scenic landscapes with marvellous fauna and flora, and extreme or unpredictable weather conditions. Steven Kimani, the founder of Bedera Places, a local travel agency specialized in climbing the mountain, is one of the most expert guides. He accompanies travellers on in this adventure many times during the year.
“I forgot how many times I did it, but every time is different,” highlights Kimani stating that climbing the mountain remains a big challenge. “It is difficult because you need to be physically fit, you must do things right to avoid altitude sickness, and most importantly, you need to be mentally prepared that things can go wrong, or differently from what you expect.”
Even during the dry season, the climb towards Lenana Peak, the third-highest peak of Mt. Kenya at 4985 meters above sea level, might reveal challenging. Unexpected heavy rains, snow blizzards, and strong winds pose significant challenges to the climbers. Conditions that require careful attention, patience, and a strong mindset. At the end of each day, the climbers are often exhausted and need some time to rest and recover.
Steven is not the only one to help climbers achieve their goals. With him, a team of porters brings the necessary equipment to cater for food, as well as the tents and the bags of the climbers. These men and women are true heroes and a crucial need for a successful climb. Steven Githenya is one of them, and for him, there is no day off. Whenever someone calls, he gathers the necessary and leaves for another climb which takes on average three to five days. “We may rest one day,” says Githenya, “but we stand ready to leave the day after if there is an opportunity.”
David Kibui agrees. He is also a porter and together with Steven, is responsible for cooking delicious meals at high altitudes with very little equipment. David, a calm and reserved man, is not only a chef. He is also responsible for setting up the tent for the climbers before they arrive at the destination. “This is our job,” adds Kibui with a warm smile. “We are happy to accompany travellers in this unique adventure.”
When the journey comes to an end, there is a mix of sadness and joy. The porters go back home and get ready to start a new adventure with a new group. The climber might feel a bit lost. After days immersed in nature, the noise of cars, motorbikes and the sight of a town is both reassuring and frightening. This epic climb is no picnic but will forever remain in the heart of the climber who overcame the challenges of the second highest mountain of Africa. Who knows how Felice Benuzzi felt when he got back to civilization.
The article was written as an assignment for a Diploma in Freelance and Feature Writing by the London School of Journalism and after climbing Mt. Kenya through the Naro Moru-Chogoria Route in December 2021.
PhotoStory: Kenya Today
